Most Common Bike Choices for the Advanced Rider

125 2-cycle

To begin with I want to talk about the 125cc 2-cycle dirt bike. Now there are people out there who love 2-cycle and won't ride a 4-cycle bike, but that doesn't matter now. I am just trying to relay a few facts. The 125 is usually set up to ride like a bigger bike, with a higher seat, and bigger tires. Many people think these are great bikes for up and coming riders who may be young and can benefit from the higher seat, but not too high and the excellent amount of power, but not to powerful. This also works great for older riders because the bike is big enough for full grown riders, but is not so powerful that it may be a chore to ride.

250 4-cycle

Next is the 250 4-stroke. This is much like the 125, but a smoother ride. 2-cycle bikes run at a much higher rev than 4-strokes which cause them to be more powerful at less cc's. Thus the 4-cycle 250 is going to perform like a 125 much have a longer power band. So this would be good for racing or riding fast for a long amount of time whereas the 125 would have been better for trail riding or a lot of top end power.

250 2-cycle

Now the 250 2-stroke is a favorite of many riders out there, and especially the older riders. This bike has great top end power and also a good deal of lower end power. Great for racing and trail riding, it is still the preferred bike for freestyle likers due to its lightweight make-up. This bike is for the advanced rider due to the touchy throttle power and it generally high seat height and big tires making it a little more difficult for shorter riders to ride when the bike is stock.

450 4-cycle

Finally the 450 4-cycle. The 450 is a newer idea that just came around in the last decade or two and is gradually taking all the glory these days. All professional supercross and motorcross riders are riding 450's due to their immense power at top end and low end. Unlike the 250 2-cycle the 450 is able to run it gears way longer and is thus a lot less work to ride while racing due to the minimal amount of shifting required. The only thing I have to say about the 450 is that it is awfully have and thus more awkward to handle if you like riding trails in the woods, and thus for that I would suggest a 125/250 2-stroke since they are lighter than their counter parts.

Where to Find Fun Scooters

Tokio Japani on maailman mielenkiintoisimmista skootteri kulttuuri, mielestäni. En ole koskaan nähnyt niin paljon mukautetun kevyen pyöräillä kaupungista elämässäni. Täydellinen paikka omistaa ja käyttää skootterit on täällä pääkaupungissa. Mene pois junien ja nauttia cruising 50cc.

Kaupungin kaduilla ja sen ympäristössä: Tokyo ovat kapeita ja joskus vaikea selata ja GPS. Suhteellisen helposti, jolloin mopo liikkuu ruuhkaisia teitä, ja kuinka helppoa on pysäköidä tekee kevyen pyöräillä niin houkutteleva, etenkin henkilölle joka ei ole erikoistunut lisenssi. On kyse liikkuvuuden ja ohjattavuus, ja tämä on miksi ihmiset, kuten minä rakastan mopot ja skootterit. 50Cc luokan varastossa skoottereita voi työntää sinut pitkin noin 35 mph, olisi muutettu yksi korkea viritysosia sinut jopa noin 90 km/h.

Tokion kaduilla ei anneta suuri ajoneuvot ja moottoripyörät; ei yksinkertaisesti ole tarpeeksi avoin tie, jotta ne mahtuisivat. Ellei tietenkin olet taitava kuljettaja, etkä välitä eksyminen, katkaista, ja suorastaan turhautuneita lainkaan jarruvalo. Voit olla onnekas löytää todella hyvä. Skootteri ohittaa kaikki arvoitus kahlata läpi tiheään tie tapoja ja kapealle kujalle tapoja.

Kun ostin ensimmäisen skootteri oli adiva 50cc luokan ja oli musta. Oli kuitenkin hauska ajaa aikana Japani on pitkään painostava kesäkuukausien aikana. Ostin toinen skootteri oli Kymco Super 9s neste jäähdytetään, post tuotanto super pyörä. Vielä 50cc, mutta oli todellinen ilo ajaa. Ottaisin jaunts rantaan illalla katsella ilotulitteita syttyy taivaalle. Skootterit liikkua niin sujuvasti läpi kaupungin kaduilla ja tiukka kävelymatkan tapoja. Päästä eroon paljon liikenne rikkomukset kuin autojen kanssa ja välitä, koska meillä on pieni pyörä kulttuurimme. Tämä tarkoittaa sitä, että ihmiset, jotka ajaa skootterit, vaikka ne ovat vieraita, noudata käytännesääntöjä kaduilla: voimme varoa toisiaan... eli poliisi ansoja. Suljemme itse pois koko rataa. Olemme kaduilla bad boys.

On erikoistunut lisenssiä tarvitaan ajaa skootteri alle 70cc Japanissa sekä skootteri on paljon halvempaa ostaa korjata ja muokata kaikkea moottori ja pyörät, jotka on liitetty. Kaasu on puolet siitä, mitä se maksaa, kuin jos Ajoitte auto. Mitä minä todella rakastat eniten skootterit on, että voin pysäköidä lähes kaikkialla haluavat ja välitä saada lippuun poliisi. Lisäksi vakuutus on erittäin halpaa. Maksaa noin $50.00 vuodessa perusvakuutuksen täällä Japanissa.

Joten jos olet markkinoilla jotain halpoja, tehokkaita, vähän huoltoa kustannukset sitten paras vaihtoehto olisi skootteri yli muun ajoneuvon, erityisesti Japanissa.

Motorcycle Chain Lube - An Easy Guide To Maintaining Your Motorcycle Chain

Initially, chains were simply just oiled. There are numerous excellent chain oils out there. Oil's primary advantage is that it is generally inexpensive, long wearing, and easy to apply and maintain. However, oil has a greater tendency to fling dirt off the chain and onto everything else (rims, garage floor, even riding gear). For this reason the industry started to introduce chain oil alternatives that fling less to keep the bike's exterior parts cleaner. However, these modern tech dry or wax based lubricants while excellent for road bikes tend not to be favoured for those who ride off-road. Most motocross riders prefer to have an oiled chain over wax or dry lubrication.

Frequent oiling with an inexpensive basic chain oil is better than infrequent use with an expensive product. Failure to keep your chain properly lubricated will lead to premature wear and tear, and even potential failure in extreme cases. On my first motorcycle, a chain driven Vulcan 500, all I used was the cheapest spray on chain oil bought from the local automotive big box store. It did the job just fine, but it was a little on the messy side compared to using wax or a Scottoiler.

A smart farkle for your ride is to install an aftermarket reservoir based automatic chain-oiler such as the Scottoiler. These consist of a reservoir which contains a special clean formula chain oil, and a drip mechanism to the rear sprocket that is normally powered off the vacuum from the fuel injection or carburetor. The device allows you to set the drip rate from a scale of 1-10 depending on your riding conditions. For those in clean dry areas and who can safely run the unit at its lowest drip setting, it is not unheard of to get more than a few thousand kilometres before needing to refill the reservoir. Refilling the reservoir is a two minute job that can be done with the bike on its side stand.

I had a Scottoiler on my previous motorcycle, (2007Kawasaki Versys), and absolutely loved it. The chain was clean and silent all the time and I never needed to put the bike up on a paddock stand to service the chain. The Scottoiler isn't faultless though. While it is much cleaner to use than aerosol or liquid chain lube, it does still in my experience fling very small amounts of oil to the rims. I found I was wiping down my rear wheel rim frequently when touring. While you may need to wipe the rims off more frequently than with using chain wax, the long intervals between having to refill the reservoir, and the fact that the chain always has just the right amount of fresh lubricant means the Scottoiler is a highly recommended solution for motorcycle chain maintenance.

The Kawasaki Versys, Ninja 650, ER6 and ER6F all have an under slung exhaust which makes adding a centre stand difficult if not impossible. On bikes like these or for any rider who likes to tour long distances with a chain driven bike, a Scottoiler is the perfect solution to minimize time spent on maintenance and protect the chain thoroughly.

Next up is dry lubricant. Normally, it is a spray containing Teflon or white graphite, which is extremely slippery, yet dry to the touch once applied. Dry lubricant's strength is that doesn't fling off so your rims and garage floor stay clean. It also doesn't attract dirt as the lubricant is dry and not sticky to the touch like traditional chain oil or in some cases wax. I have zero experience with using dry lubricant as I have heard from riding buddies that used it that it doesn't stand up that well in wet rainy conditions. As I live on Canada's West Coast, and we get very rainy fall and winter weather, I have opted to avoid using this style of chain lubricant so far. Next summer though I may switch for a few months just to be able to know first hand if this is a better option than chain wax.

Chain Wax is the next upgraded chemical technology level for chain maintenance. Chain wax is applied to a warm chain and takes about 15 minutes to set up. After that time, it is dry and both resists flinging mess, and in theory will better protect the chain from the elements as the wax provides additional protection to your precious links. However, chain wax isn't perfect either. It should not be applied to a previously oiled chain until it has been thoroughly cleaned. Cleaning a waxed chain can also be a little more challenging than an oiled one, as the waxed surface clings much better than oil and hence is more difficult to remove than a surface that is simply oiled. I have used both spray oil, and spray chain wax, and despite the extra cleaning effort my personal preference is chain wax. I have been using Maxima Chain Wax on my Triumph Tiger 1050 SE, and find that re-application every 500-600 km is sufficient to thoroughly protect the chain. It is the cleanest solution I have used to date provided you follow the instructions on the can.

Visit http://www.farklemyride.com/2012/08/31/motorcycle-chain-maintenance-chain-cleaning/ to get great tips on how to get your motorcycle chain cleaned before you add any lube to it.
http://www.farklemyride.com/ has many more reviews on motorcycle accessories and gear. All written by riders for riders.

Why You Should Use Winter Motorcycle Tires During Winter

Now that the winter has hit hard and cold, some riders may opt to store their motorcycles safely in their garages till the next riding season. However, there are those die-hard fans that will battle the biting cold to be atop of their bikes. Regardless of the type of bike you are using (Ural sidecar rig or a three wheeler); consider the below-mentioned factors when riding in winter:

· Right helmet (that emits heat in case of an accident to avoid swelling of the head)

· Safety clothes (to keep you warm)

· Good lighting

· Good quality engine and finally

· Winter tires! Your tires should give you a combination of good feel, good grip and longevity.

What to check for when shopping for winter tires

Standard tires have good dry traction; however the same can not be said of their wet traction. Tires, whether manufactured by the same manufacturer or not, differ greatly in their tread patterns and their rubber compounds because each is made for a different riding surface. Street bike tires have different tread patterns and contact patch compared to dirt bike tires. Similarly, summer tires can not be used during winter because their wet traction is not as good as that of winter tires hence end up being very slippery.

Winter tires have wider grooves and narrow slits at the edges of the tread area to get as much water from their contact patch as possible. Another notable difference is that winter tires are made of material that remains soft and maintains a good grip well below zero degrees Celsius. The standard tires, however, are made of rubber compounds that stiffen as the temperature drops hence their grip starts to reduce below seven degrees Celsius.

What kind of tires to you use

There are a number of winter motorcycle tires available in the market from notable brands. The brand you choose for your motorcycle depends on your preference. Here are the few brands available currently:

1) Winter Shinko Motorcycle Tires - These have a considerable good grip and last long.

2) Trelleborg has two types:

i. Army Specials - They are great; the rubber stays soft even when the temperature gets really low, but do not last too long.

ii. Kenda - They have a good compromise between traction and longevity.

3) Bridgestone TW 301/302 - They tend to be slippery.

4) Metzeler Karoo - They are of standard quality.

5) Pirelli MT21s - They are of standard quality.

6) Dunlop D606 - They are of standard quality.

Michelin Tires have two types of winter tires, Alpin and Pilot Alpin, but they are designed for cars only. Snow chains may work just fine, in absence of winter motorcycle tires.

We are all aware that slippery roads require more grip therefore good tires are essential for winter riding. To optimize the road performance of your bike, it is important to buy tires that are designed specifically for winter weather to prevent your bike from slipping. It is also important to check tire pressure as under inflated tires can affect your bikes handling significantly.

Arline W is a motorcycle expert affiliated with 4wheelonline.com, one of the country's leading retailers of Shinko motorcycle tires. For more information contact them on 813-769-2451 or visit them along 6605 North Nebraska Avenue.

How to Remove Rust From Your Bike

Removing rust from your motorcycle and the parts associated with it allows you to keep the bike's quality and aesthetics intact. Preventive treatment to ensure an object from rusting again is essential. For these actions to be undertaken, you need to be in a dry area, you will need good products and plenty of elbow grease.

If you already have a motorcycle that is experiencing some rust issues, follow these helpful tips to ensure your bike returns to its former glory.

1. Cleaning - The first step in any cleaning process is to wipe down the affected areas. You can do this by using motorcycle shampoos with water and then take a rag and wipe off the area.

2. Removing the rust - To remove any present rust, start off by cleaning the etched surface. If it is a large flat surface, you can use a sander on low speed. The sander disc or strip should be equipped with a grinding wheel, just in case. Remove any loose paint that you see by using a normal household spatula (just don't put it back in the kitchen when you are done). You can also remove rust with a wire brush on surfaces that seem irregular or are difficult to access. You always want to start with a wire brush or steel wool. After this step, vacuum the dust away before proceeding. Be careful that you don't sand off or rub off paint, however, as this can leave ugly marks and patches on your bike's surface.

3. How to remove rust - To clean a rusty surface, you can also use anti-rust products. They apply by brush or spray. They alter the composition of the rust and destroy any present rust and will also help deter future rust. These products often avoid tedious sanding and scraping of a rusty object.

4. Prevent the recurrence of rust - Treat your bike so you can prevent it from becoming rusty again. Many products prevent the recurrence of rust. Paints with lead oxide apply as a normal paint. We call them anti-corrosive primers. Other products can paint the metal, although it is still a little rusty. Also try covering your bike when not in use. While a motorcycle cover can't prevent rust, it can help present excess moisture and harmful debris from collecting on it.

5. Regularly treat the rusted objects - Repeat this process of treatment about every two years on your motorcycle or earlier, if needed.

Regular maintenance and care can help reduce the amount of rust that collects on your bike. While motorcycle covers and rust resistant paint coatings are not cure-alls, they will help reduce rust that occurs as well as help make the cleaning process easier.

To protect your motorcycle this winter, purchase a motorcycle cover from Beverly Bay.

Mods - Their Love of Scooters and Fashion

The word mod or modernist is a name that describes a type of subculture that originally started in London, England around the late 1950s. While varying from era to era essentially, the people considered to be mods are invariably viewed with a love of fashion, music, and scooters - and this was certainly the case early on. Indeed, due to their sharp looks and air of aloofness, the mod sub culture rapidly gained in popularity and by the mid 1960s the media was using the word mod to describe anything that was popular and fashionable.

Like all fads the mod group slowly lost popularity in the late 1960s, but soon experienced a revival in the United kingdom in the 1970s and then again in the 1980s in North America. There's a great deal of disagreement about where the mod culture started and more to the point, why it started. Taken at face value, and as an abbreviation for the overriding 'modernist' term, the first mods were documented as a stylish youth who enjoyed modern jazz.

The mods that perhaps have become most famous around the world were those in 1970s UK who adored Vespa or Lambretta scooters, sharp clothes and a certain brand of music. That said, and regardless of the era, the most common conception of the mod look focusses on sharp and tailored suits for men, and streamlined dresses and skirts for women.

From the 1950s onwards, and no doubt as a result of being a counter culture, all mod groups were very desirable and dangerous to the average outsider looking in. Seen by many as being cool and sexy, mods partied hard at night and looked great while riding their scooters in the day and the UK press helped to create a conception around the culture that days were for shopping, and nights were for drug fueled partying.

Indeed, it was this partying how the group soon earned its reputation for heavy amphetamine use in the early parts of the 60s. Clubs throughout the UK (particularly in London and the North) became dedicated mod venues and music continued its role at the centre of the sub-culture.

Unsurprisingly, as a group grows in popularity, it will find conflict and outside of the establishment, mods true rivals in the UK in particular were 'the rockers'. With conflicting ideologies, friction grew between the two groups to a level that culminated in a series of riots throughout the south coast of the country.

While rockers already had a fairly negative reputation, mods suffered worse and became a poster child for the UK press to isolate and demonise. Nevertheless, time heals and while not as popular as it once was, the mod culture still lives strong in the UK today.

I'm a big fan of mod style and particularly scooter clothing such as that found at http://armadilloscooterwear.com/ and other websites such as Urban Rider.

One Wheeled Motorbikes - I Want One

A friend of mine showed me a cool video he saw on YouTube and it blew my mind. It was a video of a guy named Chris Hoffman, inventor of RYNO Motors, riding a one wheeled motorbike (His invention). Chris figured out a way to build a self balancing, environmental friendly, Segway-like vehicle with better maneuverability, improved storage capabilities, and way cooler looking that the Segway. About five years back, his daughter was playing a video game screen and asked him to build the fictitious unicycle she saw on screen. Five years later, RYNO motors is about to launch sales, estimated to hit market in January 2013.

Maneuverability and compactness are key. Because of its small size and one wheeled architecture, the micro-cycle can go where other vehicles cannot. On the sidewalk, into the front door of your apartment building, up the elevator, down the hallway, and into your apartment where it takes up just a fraction of the space required for a bicycle or a Segway. Two areas this is specifically helpful is parking and day to day police activities.

Large cities with huge corporate buildings and condos/apartment complexes suffer when it comes to parking. The one wheeled motorbike would certainly alleviate some of this stress, especially if stored inside. If stored outside, it'd still be a good amount smaller than a car or a motorcycle. Secondly, the low speed maneuvering and easy access to interacting with people make it very desirable among the Portland Police (RYNO motors is located in Portland, Oregon).

These are intended for short city commuting and can go about 30 miles on one charge off a zero pollutant 36 volt 32 amp battery which slides out easily with a carrying handle and key lock. Controls are pretty standard motorcycle/Vespa controls - twist throttle and handbrake. Max speed for one these is 20 mph. Faster might be fun but RYNO motors wants to keep its customers safe and 20mph is a good max speed.

Last but not least, they look awesome. There has been some discussion about allowing people to personalize their own bike design - I'll be the first to let you know if this becomes available and will let you know when I get to pimp out mine. Practical and good looking, it was love at first site. I want one! Many of my friends and readers do as well, and I will be sure to let everyone know once I know when and where we can get one of these.

David Toub is a strong believer in one wheeled motorbikes. You can check out other one wheeled motorbike articles and feel free to contact David with any questions here: OneWheeledMotorbikes Contact

Tips group motorcycle safely

Often we see large motorcycles, horseback riding, as well as 15, 20 or 30 bikes. These large motorcycles are usually spread over one, two or even three lanes. Motorcyclists behind these large groups are in a precarious situation, that run red lights to keep the Group endanger themselves and others on the road. Is a safer way to drive even though the number of riders.

A large group of riders can be divided into several smaller groups of motorcycles. Due to the size of a large group of riders will lead to the same place, one of the smaller group arrives in the moments before the start of the second, third, or fourth group security is easy to make a decision. If you have ten motorcycles, divided into two groups of five riders, eight motorcycles in two groups of four, etc.. Before driving, make sure the destination and the route then ride bikes staggered formation.

Ensure that each small group lead rider is an experienced and conservative. The rider should keep the Group lead to the center lane, when it is possible and to avoid constant lane changes. In addition, the lead motorcyclist should know about traffic and do the best to be the group to prevent others. It is perfectly acceptable, if you need to move the right drivers to move on. Hand signals is always a good idea, but the best is used at least and discussed before the ride.

Each small group of riders must do their best to stick together and give sufficient space for the motorcycle in a safe stop, but not so much that the car feel they have enough space to pull in mid group. In the back of the rider should keep other riders falling back too far.

Discuss the ride before leaving, so all the riders in the group know where they should be. It never hurts to have a discussion about motorcycle safety tips in advance, other riders to ask their pre-ride checks on a motorcycle and discuss any hand signals, you can use while driving. New motorcycle rider must avoid a group ride, until they become familiar with the bike and the different situations in traffic. Everything gives way to the attention and keep the shiny side.

Jerry "supplies" Palladino is shown over 3,000 motorcycle safety seminars across the country on half-time Deputy Sheriff for his work. More than 13 years to ride like a pro courses are taught to thousands of students and have never had a single accident or injury.

Tips on How to Winterize Your Motorcycle

As winter closes in on us, you need to think about storing your bike for the winter if you live in frigid climates. Although there are only a few months of winter, the main concern is to avoid any corrosion while your bike is in storage. Then, once winter passes, you will have a bike that is ready to go.

The areas of most concern against corrosion are the valve seats, cylinder walls and piston rings. Because moisture can find access to your engine from many various places and cause serious damage, it is the enemy. Closing up all the areas moisture could enter the engine is not feasible, so it is crucial to focus on moisture proofing your bike instead.

Begin by warming up your engine. Any moisture that has accumulated will be driven off, and this makes it simple to get a fair coating of oil in each of the cylinders. Next, turn off your bike and remove your spark plugs. Now, using your good old turkey baster, suck 25cc's of engine oil, and then squirt the oil into each of the plug holes. By hand, and with the plugs still out, turn the engine over by placing the bike in top gear and turning the rear wheel. This will coat the valve seats, piston rings and cylinder walls. Follow up by replacing the spark plugs, and draining the existing crankcase oil. After this, fill the crankcase with fresh oil. It is suggested that you retain the old filter and plan on changing the oil in the spring. However, if you prefer to use the existing oil after the thaw, you should change the filter now. This concludes the difficult part of preparing your bike for winter. You can rest assured in knowing that moisture will not rust out your engine parts.

But, there is still more to think about. (If your bike is fuel injected, you can skip this step.) The inside of your fuel tank will also need protection from rusting. To do this, fill your tank to the top using fuel that was treated with a fuel stabilizer. Then, drain the float bowls. To do this, unscrew the small screw found on the carb float bowl. When fuel is left in the bowls for an excess of two months it becomes jet-clogging sludge that requires a carb overhaul to remove.

Since batteries self-discharge, you must keep the battery charged up when the bike is stored. The solution to this is to hook your battery up to a Super Smart Battery Tender. The battery can be left in the bike while it is hooked up. Ensure that your bike has enough coolant and cover the bike with a motorcycle cover. You are ready for winter!

To protect your motorcycle this winter, visit Beverly Bay to shop our quality motorcycle covers.

Auxiliary Motorcycle 3000 Lumen LED Lights by Cree Aka "Komy Lights"

Those that have read my articles may think I'm a little OCD when it comes to motorcycle lighting and safety. However, when we have documents like The Hurt Report on motorcycle safety showing that one of the most common accidents between motorcycles and other vehicles is drivers turning in front of them violating the rider's right of way, I think a little paranoia may be justified. Hence why I tend to favour my unfashionably bright neon riding jacket, and why I've upgraded my headlight from stock to HID. The final piece of the visibility puzzle, as well as making a substantial increase in night time light output, was to install some auxiliary lights.

I won't mince words here. My personal opinion is that the Triumph Tiger 1050's stock lighting is terrible. We've had five different motorcycles in our garage over the last ten years, and I've ridden numerous others short term. My Tiger is the worst of the bunch when it comes to its stock lighting set up. On a Tiger rider's forum the lights have been sarcastically described as "headlights that are as bright as an Ikea tea light". Despite my frustration with the Tiger's lights and its stock windscreen, the Tiger is also the motorcycle I have loved more than any other I've ridden. It is extremely comfortable, handles very well, is easy to ride at both high and low speeds, and has fantastic power. I prefer the power, handling and looks of this bike to many much more expensive motorcycles. Therefore it was time to start farkling and get the lights sorted out to make my favourite ride perfect for night time use.

I began reading about all the various options out there for improving stock lighting. Upgrading the headlight from stock halogen to a better aftermarket bulb was an option I tried on my old motorcycle. This time I would try a HID kit, mostly because it allowed me to reduce my power draw 20 watts from the original halogen while at the same time giving substantially more and better light. I would use those precious saved 20 amps later when the auxiliary lights were installed. Next I needed to look at which auxiliary lights to buy. PIAA, and Denali are some of the big names out there. They are no doubt excellent lights, but they are very expensive too. Reading forums, and searching YouTube for possible answers I came upon Mark Robbins' video. I was very impressed with what I saw, and asked Mark if he would send us an article which is the one you can now read on this site. In the end the lights I bought were the same lights Mark wrote about which were the Cree lights from Hong Kong. The product quality was reported as very high, yet they cost roughly half as much as all the big name competing products. I spent some of my savings on my HID kit , and still had some money left over for beer. (Always important, after a good day of riding.)

These lights are manufactured in Hong Kong by a man named Komy Kwan. You will often hear people including myself affectionately call his lights "Komy Lights" even though he doesn't label them this way. I've contacted Komy several times before purchasing, and afterwards to get information before writing this article. He has always impressed me as an exceptionally bright and decent person who really stands behind his product.

There are three different Motorcycle LED Auxiliary Light Pairs available for purchase. They are; a 780 Lumen pair, a 1,600 Lumen pair, and a 3,000 Lumen pair. Which light is right for your bike is really a personal issue. The 780 Lumen lights are ideally paired with your low beam and make excellent daytime running lights. The 1600 Lumen set will be too bright to use without the dimmer installed when facing traffic, but will give off lots light when running alone at night on an unlit road. The 3,000 Lumen set absolutely needs the dimmer for use in traffic, at full bright they are damn near blinding, however when you are alone riding a highway at night it is like having stadium lighting mounted to your motorcycle frame.

Being a typical guy, bigger isn't just better... it's best! Therefore I ordered the 3,000 Lumen LED set with a dimmer. I've included a wiring diagram, but for those that will simply bring the lights to the dealer to get installed here is the essence of it. When the lights are on low with the low beam, the power gets routed through the dimmer. The dimmer gets set with a wireless remote control. Once you've set the appropriate brightness level of the LED's when the low beam is selected, you can put the remote away. Leave it at home, in a tank bag, or in your pocket... it doesn't matter unless you wish to adjust the LED's light output with the low beam at a later time. When the high beam is selected, the dimmer circuit is bypassed and the LED's go to full power. DO NOT LOOK DIRECTLY INTO THE LIGHT the first time you turn these things on or you will be seeing spots for quite a while.

Now if you have the electrical capacity to handle it, and the extra money to spend... The best possible solution likely would be a pair of 780 Lumens LED's paired just to the low beams, and a pair of 3000 Lumen LED's just to the high beams. Some owners have gone this route and are very pleased. However with just the 3000 Lumen pair and a dimmer, I get the best possible night lighting with the ability to be able to also run these lights in traffic dimmed to a safe level for oncoming drivers.

I mounted these lights using a light bracket ordered through a local dealership. The bracket was made by SW-MOTECH. These lights should be able to be mounted just about anywhere; forks, fairing bolts, light bars, handle bars, crash bars, etc. It is up to the owner to best determine how to fit these to their own specific motorcycle.

I had these lights as well as the Yana Shiki HID conversion kit installed at my local authorized Triumph dealer as my motorcycle is on warranty and I did not want to put that at risk by making these changes to the bike's electrics myself. For those that will be paying someone else to install the lights, the savings in cost between these and some of the other big brands will likely pay your installation costs.

So the big question do they work well and would I recommend them? YES and YES! These lights are simply incredible. They light up the road better than the high beams on either of our family cars. They look really cool, and they are exceptionally efficient. My neighbour, who is a pretty hardcore Harley rider, exclaimed "holy #%&k! " when I demonstrated them to him the first time. The electrics specialist at my local Triumph dealer who installed the lights was extremely impressed with both the quality and brightness of the Cree 3000 LED's. They typically shock people with their performance as they are so small in size yet put out an enormous amount of light. These lights will get you noticed on full strength so be smart and only run them in a dimmed mode in traffic unless you want to attract the attention of law enforcement. However as a means to flash an inattentive driver, nothing I've seen personally is as bright or effective for a motorcycle.

When riding alone on a dark road on a moonless night, it feels like you are riding through a tunnel of light. Before I felt unsafe riding in pitch dark conditions unless I kept the speed right down to around 50 km/h. Now I can maintain the speed limit on most any Canadian highway with confidence. Riding at night is inherently more dangerous, because of wildlife and other hazards that are difficult to see. With these lights that danger has been reduced substantially, and for a safety minded rider that is reason enough to make this upgrade.

Visit http://www.farklemyride.com/ to see the before and after photos and a video of the LED upgrade showing you exactly how bright these lights are as well as many other reviews of motorcycle gear and accessories for your ride. All written by riders for riders.

Experience The Revolutionizing E-Bike In Its Various Forms

Bicycles have always been underrated because it falls far behind the comfort of a car or the thrill of a motorcycle. However, it is no longer a dark horse because with the advent of technology, bicycles have literally taken a turn for the better. It is no longer the underdog in the race of transportation mode. There has been a paradigm change in what bicycles were a decade ago and what it is today. The bicycle market is witnessing an active movement and manufacturers are busy with creation of new models and other innovative features.

The one cycle which has revolutionized the bicycle industry, however, is the electric bike, popularly known as the e-bike. The electric bike segment has gone viral and a number of variants have caught the imagination of cyclists around the world. Electric mountain bikes to hybrid electric bikes and electric assist bikes are just a few of the many e-bikes that are creating a rage these days. These bikes are designed to ensure better performance of your e-bike so that you can get maximum output. The design, the functionalities, the technology as well as the aesthetic brilliance of these bikes with leave you in awe.

Electric bikes can be regarded as a boon as it comes with a lot of healthy benefits. They use rechargeable batteries allowing it to accelerate at a power of 15 to 20 miles per hour. Manufacturers have incorporated cutting edge technology in these e-bikes like the carbon fiber which has exceptional strength as it gets rid of the extra weight that comes from an aluminum or steel frame bike. What's more, e-bikes are soon turning out to be the most viable option to counter global warming since it does not leave any residue. In fact many automobile stalwarts have already launched concept models of electric bicycles and have started garnering positive response from potential customers.

Mountain bikers will also get a flavor of electrically run bikes in the mountain, thanks to the creators of electric mountain bike. You no longer have to pedal a heavy bike uphill which carries unnecessary weight. Save you time and energy with the help of this advanced carbon fiber electric mountain bike which is extra light in weight and is the most ideal type of bicycle up in the mountain ridges. A lot of innovative gadgets like multi-speed onboard computer module with built in speedometer, wattage meter, battery life indicator, etc are already integrated in these bikes. So, if you are an enthusiastic mountain biker, you will not regret a moment after you lay your hands on this amazing bike.

Another worth mention creation is the hybrid electric bike that is soaring up in popularity on account of the fact that it uses its own power to function. The manufacturers have designed this bike in such a way that it is not made bulky and it agility is left intact. Hybrid electric bikes are especially designed for bike riders and commuters who like to enjoy the thrill of riding a well structured electric bike.

We provide the most stylish and efficient electric bicycle, hybrid bikes and electric bikes and many more.

What You Need to Know About Rubber Compound on Motorcycle Tires

Tires provide traction between the motorcycle and the road while providing cushion that absorbs shock. Materials used to manufacture modern pneumatic tires include synthetic rubber, natural rubber, fabric and wire, carbon black and other chemical compounds.

Rubber used for your tires is a complex blend of up to 200 chemicals, both natural and synthetic rubbers. Carbon black as a filler and a host of other ingredients like sulfur to harden the rubber and anti-oxidants to prevent damage from UV light. Silica is used as a filler to enhance tire grip during wet weather. It also contributes to improved performance during such times.

Synthetic rubber is any type of artificial material with the mechanical property that can undergo much more elastic deformation under stress than other materials but still return to its previous size without permanent deformation.

Natural rubber consists of suitable polymers of the organic compound isoprene with impurities of other organic compounds plus water. The rubber is harvested mainly in form of latex; a sticky, milky colloid drawn off by making incisions into the bark of a tree and collecting the fluid vessels. The latex is then refined into rubber ready for commercial processing. Natural rubber has a large stretch ratio, high resilience and is extremely waterproof.

Tread pattern is the part in contact with the road. This depends on the profile of the tire and the rubber compound you chose is based on the use of your tire. Tire manufacturers use different compounds depending on the intended use of the tire. For instance, street motorcycle tires which use harder rubber compound get better gas mileage but at the same time they don't stick to the road. The softer the rubber compound, the "grippier" a tire is, though you give up gas mileage.

For off-Road tires, the grip depends on where you ride. There is a tire compound best suited for your needs; from soft compounds for hard terrain to hard compound for digging up that spongy loam. Your off-road performance will be directly affected by the type of rubber you use and also the difference in tread patterns and lug depth.

Softer compounds are designed to give an edge in grip while harder compounds are designed to give longer tread life and cooler running mostly for long-haul driving. Manufacturers such as Pirelli Motorcycle Tires produce several different compounds to create a whole range of compounds for consumers. Some use different compounds within a single tire like using a softer compound at the tires edges and a bit harder compound in the center. This design promotes remarkably high grip when leaning over and yet the tire still wears slowly in the center.

To get more performance and mileage from your tires a rider needs to use multiple compounds in the tread. The center of the tire doesn't need much grip that the sides since the motorcycle is upright when the contact patch is in the middle. At the same time, the shoulder of the tire needs more grip, because this is where the contact patch is during hard cornering. The idea is to use a harder compound in the middle of the tire and a softer one in the edges and then you get increased mileage as well as incredible cornering grip.

Charity Kadzo is a professional article writer. Working for 4wheelonline.com, a company that deals with wheels and motorcycle tires among other. For more information on 4wheelonline go to Pirelli Motorcycle Tires

Changing motorcycle tires is now easy!

Are you worried that the idea of getting a hole in the middle of nowhere? Are you worried because you think that changing the tire is so hard? Let go of the fears and see what the ring is hassle-free. All you need is to have the right tools and steps. These you don't have to worry about going to the motorcycle trips alone worry about punctures.

You will need the following equipment;

Motorcycle standReplacement tube (if necessary) the Crescent wrenchHammerCrowbarAir compressor

The Steps Of The

· Take the motorcycle and set it to the empty. Ensure that the seat is flat. If you have a hole in the middle of the road, pull the wheel on the road to avoid accidents or distractions on the road. Lift bike motorcycle chassis using the.

· Use the crescent wrench to loosen the ring lug-nut and remove it. then remove the washing machine that is found in the nut and shaft.

· Take a hammer and hit the lug bolt through the axis of the axle. When is a bit loose, you can pull it out of your hand. Next, Remove the square channel by tightening your swing-arm bracers.

· Tool Pearl hammer to break away from the rim of the gem. When you hear a pop sound, to know that the bead is broken. Roll the chain out of the condition of the sprocket, press the ring ahead and then remove the tire motorcycle.

· Next, you use a knife or a screwdriver, push the valve stem core and release the air from the pipe. The crowbar to pry the side of the tyre to rim's over the edge. Ensure the squeeze tube and thus, if you want to use again. Remove the old tube ring and pull the ring on the other side of the rim.

· Take a new ring, place against the rim and press it over the edge. Slide the old pipe to the rim, but if you are new to the pipe, you can also use it. Make sure that the pipe corresponds to the valve stem in the hole.

· Lift the tire onto the rim of the mouth to the other side of the iron. Do carefully, in order to avoid, pinching the tube. Once it is settled case-law of the compressor to pump up the tire on the rim.

· The ring is now ready to be placed in a motorcycle. Follow the process, unplug it attach to the back. In this time, to make sure it stays firmly in place.

Now is a good idea to continue the journey.

View! Motorcycle tire sales is easy. All you have to do is follow the simple steps above and is ready before you even realize it. All the best!

(J) Mary is an online car-article-writer, specializing in motorcycle tires, and exhaust pipes. For more information about his work on V Twin motorcycle tires or Touring motorcycle bike tires with detailed information about the products of motorcycle are also given.

Basic Tips on Motorcycle Safety, How to Try, Buy, Check Condition and Enjoy Your Biker Lifestyle

This information has been gathered by many years of motorcycle riding and will be part of a motorcycle series of articles I will be writing when time permits.

If you are thinking of buying your first motorcycle there are a lot of things to consider. Engine size is important (you do not want to buy something beyond your experience and handling capacity). If you are a complete newbie perhaps a 250cc motorcycle would be relevant. Sit on the seat and check if is the right height for you. If you feel it is just a little high there are means to get around this. You can lower most modern motorcycles these days. Some motorcycles such as Harley Davidson have after -market lowering kits and I am sure there are many more makes and models with similar products. You can lower the front of most bikes up to around 35mm by loosening the triple clamps and letting the front fork legs rise up through. There are a lot of motorcycles with adjustable rear shocks too.

Once you have decided what model most suits your needs there are few things to look for. Every motorcycle has a lock stop on either side of the fork triple tree. This is to stop the motorcycle being turned too far beyond safety turning levels. Turn the handlebars left to right and check them for damage or welding (these stops are one of the first things damaged in a crash). Have a good look underneath the exhaust system for excessive scratching or road rash. Have a look at the front tyre from the side - if there are little mounds or bumps it could indicate faulty wheel bearings or wheel alignment. If the bike is chain drive look at the condition of the rear sprocket, check that the teeth are not sharply pointed or missing. Move the chain up & down and side to side to check for wear. Check for tyre wear and wheel rim damage.

Move to the engine and check for obvious oil leaks and the condition of the engine and transmission screws, bolts and nuts for damage. The last thing you want to do is buy a used bike that has been butchered by an amateur mechanic. Most motorcycles come with a basic maintenance booklet and small tool kit (ask to see these) it is most important while you are riding to have some basic tool kit as you never know when you when it may come in handy. If the motorcycle has spokes in the wheels give them a shake to check for loosening.

After buying your motorcycle make sure you carry a spare globe for front and back lights. A pair of spark plugs are also a must (especially if you have chosen a two stroke engine type). A small piece of rag to wrap your tools in if one is not supplied.

Now these tips are basically enough to get you going on your way to being a biker and enjoying your ride.

My name is Graham Macardy I have been riding motorcycles since the age of twelve. I am a qualified motorcycle mechanic and have owned motorcycle repair and sales businesses. I have just started to release some biker action DVDs from yester year to the present. These have been lost in my garage for many years and have just been found and converted from film. Go to my website and check them out. They will be released one at a time as they are processed. Have a look at my story.

http://www.mister-motorcycle.com/index.html

Looking To Increase Your Motorcycle Luggage Capacity?

Shopping for motorcycle bags should not be a challenge. Your choice may be influenced by:

· Budget (How much are you willing to spend?)

· Need for storage space (How much space do you need?)

· Custom bag (are you shopping for a customized bag?)

Luckily there are different types of motorcycle bags available in the aftermarket. They are made of different materials, are of different styles and are manufactured for different purposes. Let us look at them:

Saddlebags

These bags hang on either side of the bike. They have straps and are made of soft material, usually soft leather or polyester. They are easily removed, hence come with a full installation gear. Some manufacturers customize them for various bikes' brands and types for example Cruiser/Tour bikes saddlebags come with a backrest. Some manufacturers use protective coats over their saddlebags to protect them from environmental hazards. However in absence of a protective coat, you can use a motorbike cover. It is important to protect saddlebags from rain. Saddle bags have more storage space compared to other types of motorcycle luggage. They are also a cheaper option especially for adventurous riders.

Panniers

Like saddlebags, they hang on the either side of motorcycles, usually around the back wheel. They are made of hard materials like metal, aluminum and hardened leather. They are more durable compared to saddlebags. With pannier motorcycle luggage, you may choose to have either higher or lower lids. Alternatively, you may choose to have them sitting on the same level with, thus may act as a back rest, albeit an uncomfortable one.

Panniers may be permanently mounted on your bike or not depending on your preference. Courier companies are known to go for the permanent fixtures to protect their deliveries from thieves and to protect fragile things from breakage in case of a fall.

Handlebar Bags

Handlebar bags are much smaller compared to Saddlebags and Panniers. They are easily fitted and removed. These are usually made of synthetic material, usually nylon. As their name depicts, they are meant to be fitted between the handlebar. However, there are different types of handlebars bags which can be fitted anywhere on the bike; between the handles, at the back, or they can be strapped on either side of the bike. These are a favorite with scooter riders. They are easy to open since most have zippers. In spite of being stylish and very convenient, they are not the best to use for valuable things.

Tank Bag

Just like Handlebar bags, Tank bags are equally small. They are fitted at the front of a motorcycle, atop the tank but not too close to block the gauges. They are commonly used to store pens, keys, notebooks, maps for travelers, wallets, cards and maybe sealed snacks. They have many zipped as well as open compartments to store different things. Since they do not have large storage space, they not a favorite of many people.

Motorcycle bags not only provide storage space but they do add aesthetic value to your bike. While some bike brands have their own customized bags like Harley Davidson most do not therefore if you are looking for general purpose motorcycle luggage, you can use these guidelines to make the best purchase. All bags come with installation manuals and are easy to install.

Arline W is a motorcycle expert affiliated with 4wheelonline.com, one of the country's leading retailers of motorcycle parts and accessories. For more information on motorcycle bag, contact them on 813-769-2451 or visit them along 6605 North Nebraska Avenue.

: The motorcycle, the original equipment or aftermarket?

It is almost customary to replace the exhaust system as soon as you are out of the showroom. This is what most riders do, in any case, in order to increase the efficiency of the bike. Although they have improved recently, the original equipment (EO) exhaust systems are heavier and have a restrictive compared to the exhaust gas flow in the secondary market of exhaust systems; the weight factor reduces the efficiency of the bike, especially sports bikes. This is a turn off to most riders. Another important note taking is EO exhaust pipes are installed in the baffles that create back pressure to reduce noise emissions. This is not the Auger with the most riders. However, as attractive as will replace the stock exhaust sounds like, it is important to learn the basics of motorcycle exhaust pipe. This will help in determining your slip-ons, or replacement of the unit.

Title:

This is also known as the exhaust manifold. The titles are largely used in the exhaust pipe and the combustion engine to facilitate the free movement of the exit point. There are two types of labels; OE (original equipment) to the top and the aftermarket header. OEs to use the titles of alloying of iron in Ferroalloy, which blocks the airflow, making it less effective in comparison to aftermarket header.

The Catalyst:

Catalytic converters used to catalyze or minimize the toxins are released into the environment. There are two types of catalytic converters, everyone has a different way of reducing carbon dioxide emissions:

1. the Interior of the converter; which oxidizes carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide and water. It will also break down the hydrocarbons in the less toxic emissions.

2. three way the converter; that break down toxins in the oxidation and reduction process.

Resonators, mufflers and silencers:

All of these are used to the noise, the high speed is what at least the exhaust gas from the engine. Silencers are most effective; they reduce the back pressure well to some extent. Sometimes riders tend to undermine the effectiveness of these devices by adding the engine power. It is important to note that more and more engine noise emissions. Excessive noise can be minimized, scarf, plugs and slip-ons.

The Exhaust Pipe:

This is the exhaust gas outlet. A variety of exhaust pipes, but a common one is: one on the exhaust pipe and the split-exhaust pipes. The most common share on the exhaust pipe is a V-twin-exhaust pipe. Manufacturers use split exhaust pipes to reduce noise without compromising engine power.

Exhaust pipes in order to avoid to be taken care of, is rusting, which will lead to increasingly greater numbers of wear. Worn tubes are much nosier, especially if your disk is corrupted.

Motorcycle exhaust system depends on the harmonious progress in all of these constituents. Each part has an important role to play towards the production of exhaust system; Therefore, if one part is defective, the whole system goes down. These parts are available in the secondary market. However, the motorcycle exhaust pipes in stock not to be regarded as ineffective. In fact, by adding a slip of a sports bike. Cruisers, instead, maybe the complete replacement of the entire exhaust system.

Chris W is a motorcycle expert affiliated with 4wheelonline. com; leading retailers of motorcycles parts and accessories and towing accessories. For more information about motorcycle exhaust pipes and hidden hitch take them to 813-769-2451 or visit 6605 North Nebraska Avenue.